

Try recovering copies from places where you previously opened, edited, sent, or printed the files.
Search your PC by filename and extension, such as.docx,.pdf, or.jpg. Check Downloads, Documents, Recent Files, email attachments, chat uploads, and Office AutoRecover folders. Open Word or Excel, then review Recent and Recover Unsaved Documents.
For photos, check your phone, camera card, messaging apps, and shared albums. Ask anyone who received the files to resend them.
This route avoids scanning the USB and often restores the exact filenames and folders. It’s simpel, fast, and adds no writes to the drive.
Plug the drive straight into a rear port on a desktop or directly into the laptop, not through a hub or a front-panel port. A long recovery scan on a stick that’s already flaky can drop connection halfway through, and a mid-scan disconnect on a dying flash drive is exactly the kind of thing that turns recoverable into gone. Cheap USB extension cables cause the same problem.
The imaging advice from @sterrenkijker is the strongest thing in this thread and it’s the part most people skip because it feels like extra work. If the files actually matter, make the image first and scan the copy. You get unlimited retries without touching the original again. The hidden-folder debate between the others is kind of a wash to me. Checking takes a minute and adds basically no writes, so I wouldn’t stress about it either way. It rarely pays off on flash drives, but it’s not the risk some are making it out to be.
On the tool itself, one thing worth setting expectations on before you get invested: Disk Drill on Windows will happily scan and show you previews for free, but actually pulling the files off usually means the paid version. So don’t run a two hour scan, get excited at the preview, then feel ambushed at the recover step. It’s fine software for this and the preview is genuinely useful for confirming files are intact, just know where the wall is. If you’d rather not pay, PhotoRec recovers deleted photos and docs for free. It’s ugly and dumps everything into numbered folders with no filenames, but for straight deleted-file recovery it works.
Realistic part. Photos and Office docs tend to come back well after a plain delete if you stopped writing quickly. What bites people is a file that ‘recovers’ but opens corrupted, especially larger PDFs or anything that was fragmented on the drive. Preview each important file before you trust it, and don’t delete your only image of the USB until you’ve confirmed the recovered files actually open. Recover, verify, then breathe.